Smith Rock, Oregon

Overview

Smith Rock State Park is Central Oregon's answer to the question, "What if Mars had a river and invited rock climbers to party?" Known as the birthplace of American sport climbing, Smith Rock is a dramatic blend of towering red spires, basalt canyons, and the meandering Crooked River, all set against a backdrop of wide-open skies and sagebrush serenity. Located just outside Terrebonne and about 25 miles north of Bend, this high-desert gem attracts climbers, hikers, photographers, and anyone who likes their nature bold, vertical, and a little windblown. Whether you're scaling "Monkey Face" or simply watching others defy gravity from a safe, snack-filled distance, Smith Rock stuns at every turn.

Top Attractions

Monkey Face

A 350-foot freestanding rock formation with you guessed it a monkey-shaped face. One of the most iconic and challenging climbs in the country.

Misery Ridge Trail

A steep but scenic 3.7-mile loop with jaw-dropping views of the Crooked River and surrounding cliffs.

Crooked River Trail

Easier terrain, winding along the base of towering cliffs ideal for mellow strolls and eye-popping photos.

Asterisk Pass

Narrow rock corridor often used by climbers to reach otherworldly ridgelines.

The Dihedrals

Classic climbing routes from beginner to "you brought how much chalk?"

Rim Rock Trail

A gentler trail atop the cliffs for sunset watchers and rattlesnake spotters (don't worry, they're shy).

Unique Stories & Facts

• Climber's Mecca: Smith Rock is considered the birthplace of modern sport climbing in the U.S., with historic routes like "To Bolt or Not to Be."
• Not Actually a Rock: It's a volcanic tuff formation, part of the Crooked River Caldera-because Oregon likes its geology spicy.
• Starry Stays: Camping near the cliffs means stargazing with canyon acoustics and coyotes harmonizing in the distance.
• Monkey Face BASE Jumps: Yep, thrill-seekers have jumped off this thing-parachutes required, obviously.

Best Travel Seasons

Popular Activities

• Rock Climbing: Over 1,500 routes-sport, trad, multi-pitch, and bouldering something for every chalk-dusted warrior.
• Hiking Misery Ridge: Steep, stunning, and a great way to earn that summit selfie.
• Photography: Sunrise and sunset light up the rocks like a geology-themed fever dream.
• Birdwatching: Home to eagles, falcons, and climbers dressed like eagles.
• Trail Running: Rugged loops and singletrack options your calves will write angry poems afterward.
• Camping: Walk-in bivouac area for climbers and outdoor dreamers no reservations, first-come, first-stoked.

Famous Buffets Nearby (~20 Miles)

• Shari's Café & Pies (Redmond, 10 miles): Classic comfort food chain with huge portions and pie worth the climb.
• Black Bear Diner (Redmond): Not technically a buffet, but servings so large you'll need a belay partner to finish.

Casinos Nearby (~30 Miles)

• Indian Head Casino (Warm Springs, ~45 miles): A bit further out, but offers slots, tables, and scenic mountain drives. Note: Closest real gamble is your rope grip.

Oddities Nearby (~20 Miles)

• Terrebonne Post Office Totem Collection: Handmade, vaguely troll-like carvings by a local eccentric fun, funky, and frequently photographed.
• Shoe Tree on Smith Rock Way: An old cottonwood covered in dangling footwear-no one knows who started it or why.
• Haunted Climber Chalk Bag Legend: Whispered tales of a cursed chalk bag that causes unexpected wedgies climbers beware.
• Giant Lizard Rock (Unmarked): From one angle, it really looks like a lizard mid-sprint-locals nod knowingly.

Haunted Tourism Nearby (~20 Miles)

• Cline Falls Power Plant Ruins (10 miles): Local lore says the site is haunted by a worker who fell during construction-now a moody photo op.
• Old Terrebonne Train Bridge: Some say they've seen lights with no source and heard phantom whistles train ghosts or just wind?
• Crooked River Echoes: Late-night sounds bouncing between canyon walls are known to creep out solo campers.

Local Events & Festivals

• Smith Rock Spring Thing (April): Annual volunteer event to maintain trails and keep the park pristine plus raffles and climber camaraderie.
• Terrebonne Community Days (Summer): Small-town celebration with parades, pie, and possibly a llama or two.
• Bend Film Festival (October, nearby): Artsy escape for when your arms are too tired to climb.
• Bend Brewfest (August): Oregon's beer scene at its finest because climbers need carbs.

Lodging Options (Types and Recommendations)

Luxury: SCP Redmond Hotel

Eco-conscious boutique digs with rooftop yoga and serious design cred (from $240/night).

Mid-Range: Best Western Plus Rama Inn

Pool, hot breakfast, and 15 minutes from the park (from $160/night).

Budget: Greenway Motel

Simple, clean, and very climber-friendly (from $90/night).

Camping: Smith Rock Bivouac Area

Walk-in tent sites with bathrooms and a communal climber vibe (from $8/person/night).

Dining (Local Cuisine Highlights)

Terrebonne Depot

Located in a restored train station great burgers, views, and outdoor patio.

Basecamp Pizza

Carbo-load like a pro locals love the veggie combo with extra olives.

One Street Down Café (Redmond)

Brunch magic, epic pancakes, and fresh local everything.

Smith Rock Coffee Roasters

Pre-hike caffeine dreams, plus locally roasted beans to take home.

Travel Tips

• What to Pack: Climbing shoes, chalk, hydration packs, layers, sun protection, and a sturdy hat (the wind has opinions).
• Safety: Steep terrain, loose rock, and fast-changing weather-know your skill level and plan accordingly.
• Accessibility: Rim Rock Trail is relatively flat and accessible; most other trails are steep and rugged.

Nearby Destinations Within 20 Miles

• Redmond: Hub town with food, lodging, and breweries plus an airport if you're flying in.
• Tumalo State Park: Riverside trails and swimming holes.
• Petersen Rock Garden: Bizarre rock sculpture garden built by a Danish immigrant-truly weird and wonderful.
• Crooked River Ranch: Golf, hikes, and a gateway to more high-desert beauty.

Recommended Duration of Stay

2-3 Days: Ideal for climbing, hiking, chilling by the river, and shouting "one more route" as the sun sets.

Target Travelers

• Rock Climbers: This is your playground bring chalk and a sense of glory.
• Adventurous Couples: Sunrise hikes, riverside cuddles, and one epic shared photo from Misery Ridge.
• Solo Wanderers: Quiet trails, meditative views, and plenty of places to sit and think about gravity.
• Weekend Warriors: Close enough for a getaway, wild enough for a memory.

Listen to Our Podcast Episode!

"From Monkey Face to Misery Ridge: Scaling the Stories of Smith Rock" - Dive into Central Oregon's climbing mecca.