If you want to feel like you’ve stepped out of a car and straight into a fairy tale (minus the fire-breathing dragons, plus a lot more haystacks), Maramureș, Romania is your place.
I just spent a week exploring this northern region and I swear the cows here live better than I do. Picture rolling green hills, wooden villages with hand-carved gates, and locals who wave at you like you’re the most exciting thing to happen all week (which, considering my rental car’s “Romanian Top 40” playlist, might actually be true).
The wooden churches are UNESCO treasures—some look like they were built for hobbits. Climb up the creaky bell towers for views straight out of a Brothers Grimm illustration. The Merry Cemetery in Săpânța is worth the trip alone: blue-painted grave markers with funny poems and cartoons about the dearly departed (turns out, Grandma did drink too much plum brandy).
Must-dos:
Ride the steam train (Mocănița) through pine forests and mountain passes. Yes, it’s slow. Yes, it’s fantastic.
Try the homemade cheese and fresh bread—the cows and bakers are living their best lives.
Chat with locals. Romanian hospitality is legendary, and they’ll want to know why on earth you picked their village.
Tip: Don’t expect big hotels or fast Wi-Fi—this is the kind of place you unplug, breathe in the hay-scented air, and maybe learn to whittle.
Highlight:
Number of wooden churches visited: 5
Number of haystacks photographed: 14 (they’re everywhere)
Number of times I considered never leaving: Several
If you’re looking for Europe before the tour buses and selfie sticks, Maramureș is as real as it gets.
Anyone else wandered the wilds of Romania? Drop your best local finds and survival tips!
Maramureș, Romania: Wooden Churches, Haystacks & Time Travel
Moderators: DaneDBlaze, Suzz